Trad belaying reddit. ) Clip into the anchor as your first piece - you should (almost) ALWAYS do this from a belay station (anchors) as Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. Figured I'd link some resources for folks who are planning to head up this year. Just follow this script: “Hey man [pause if they need to take their earbuds out] I noticed you were lead certified [motion to tag on harness] and was wondering if you’d like to trade a few This might all well and good on the brand new bolts of that sport climb, you can flail on those things all day. Use an ATC on trad climbing or if you are using half/twin ropes. Not much of an issue for me climbing in the Red, just curious. You’ll find which discipline you fall under more with time and you’ll split the I don't use them for rappelling, TR belaying or belaying a second after I lead. And yes we are scared of falling. Do you use the grigri for long multipitch stuff where you want 4) Everyone at the gym seems so comfortable lead belaying, but It makes me more nervous than lead climbing. The molded gear loops are easy to clip, and while they won't hold enough If you are trad climbing, belaying further away from the wall during a fall can exert an outward force on the first piece of pro which may cause it to pop. , belaying from the above, using the MegaJul in guide mode. Let your belayer know that We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The dynamic belay is seldom used in trad climbing, and when belaying on a multi-pitch you can't move around. I prefer to use a grigri for belaying, but always bring a reverso-style device for the rappels. It works well for belaying a leader or top-roping, but only OK in guide mode (high friction, elbow workout) and rappelling (a It's never acceptable to drop someone in any type of belaying. It is easy to be less attentive while trad belaying, but don't take your role lightly. Girlfriend just getting into climbing outside, but she's tiny (about 50kg). Is that a common thing in the US? Grigri 1 for gym, sport, top-rope. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. Contrary to some comments, you are NOT trapped in the system. How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. 8 climber, 25 feet above your last pro, I have been climbing a bit over the last six months, and I have been renting all my gear. He I’ve recently started top toping more, and have found that while belaying, the repetitive movement of my break hand moving up the rope is causing blistering in between my thumb and index You always keep it down in those cases. " "That's cool. Tis the season and I'm starting to see some silly anchors in my social feeds. They're easiest to set up on bolts, but possible with trad gear (make sure you have both downward and upward pull pieces). It just seems like there is a lot to take into consideration, its all very conditional, Similarly, if the weather is closing in, belaying off a single bomber thread or two good hexes would be objectively much lower risk than wasting time trying to find additional pieces and getting caught in a thunderstorm. His body is just kinda dangling up there, but advice request for belaying someone with a large weight difference A friend of mine recently started climbing. Some climbing guides I talked to in Switzerland and Austria even were of the opinion that you shouldn't teach the two-hand method because it makes teaching lead belaying harder, is Belay tips discussion Most of us know the basics of belaying, particularly top rope, but I wanted to know what kind of pro tips you guys might have beyond the basic PBUS It may not be directly I was using an atc device. So if she's lead belaying, and the leader takes a fall, she's probably going to get whipped up quite a ways, and that has If it’s not comfortable when there’s weight going through the belay loop (climbing or belaying) then you’re going to be avoiding falling (and therefore trying harder stuff). It's expensive, but nice. When I started i got an ATC and I ended up buying a Grigri for sport climbing. - Haul your partner. This was my first time belaying lead climbing and was not used to giving slack. 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I've been climbing for many years but everyone I've climbed with has been relatively close to my weight - I'm Looks like they are short roping the climber? Or am I wrong? Short roping someones on a runout or on sketchy trad can be super dangerous too. e. one negative for belaying 2 seconds with the atc in guide mode: if the pitch is overhanging and some weights the device, you may have to be extra cautious so the device actually locks the So my buddy just took a bit of a fall on trad and broke his neck in what appears to be a fairly peaceful death due to poor gear placements. I occasionally see arguments about how Trad wives suck , or about trad wife supremacy, and was wondering how many people actually care Reply reply AphelionEntity • I teach lead climbing/belaying on a regular basis and if we applied the same rule, none of the people I taught should have learned it, including myself. Even though belaying may not be pleasant, at least you're paying attention. When that happens you'll Short for traditional climbing, trad climbing is a form of free climbing where the lead climber places temporary protection equipment into cracks and other features of the rock while ascending the climbing route. We’ve put together a quick guide to help you get to grips with the right gear. I’m a petite 135lb woman who realized, “wow, the friction of this rope is getting crazy In guide mode while belaying a second, you have to actively engage the GriGri by holding tension on the brake hand side of the rope or it won't lock if the climber sits down slowly or takes a I think overall if you have a conversation about safety, are willing to give and accept feedback about belaying, address any weight discrepancies safely etc, it’s probably fine, but I’d Guys, I learned a hard lesson today about paying attention while belaying from a gri-gri (climber completely unharmed). I did it many times and it was very hard work. Has some light drawbacks. Whenever the leader is placing gear on a comfortable stance, use that time to Here are some older slides I put together that illustrate some of the forces in fixed point belaying as well as the alternatives to a fixed point belay (including chariot belay): When you're attached to the anchor, you'll need to choose a method to belay your partner. 16 votes, 39 comments. The FPLB can be pretty tricky and unnerving for folks It's bad to short-rope your leader on a sport route, but even worse in trad considering they'd be falling on gear. Ever wondered how to top-belay Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. It probably wouldn’t take long to meet people to trade belays with either! I will say that you’ll face the fear of falling in I'm looking to get back into climbing after a long hiatus from the sport. can I just walk up to someone at the gym and ask if they want to “trade” being belayed? or would that be frowned upon? (I am top rope “certified” Historically, I have enjoyed the use of my Petzl Reverso in guide mode belaying directly off the anchor's master. Never climbed indoors, all outdoors (most TR, TR and lead belaying, few multi-pitch). The home of Climbing on reddit. it's dangerous. It can He set up the scenario as such: He is belaying his second from the top of the cliff and his pre rigged the rope for a rappel. The climber was like 10 ft above last hook and he had a lot of slack obviously. I My trad mentor told me to never belay directly off the anchor, as belaying off you harness kept more give in the system. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Learn how to: - Escape the belay in a variety of ways. So is it possible to attach the belaying device to a fixed point (like a sling around a tree, a ground-near bolt or something similar) and have her belaying me without a harness? As far as I To be clear, that comment was about top belaying, i. It's perfectly fine (except for Reddit gymbies) and can be tied as you show OR on the backside of your masterpoint clove. If you’re just getting into trad or multi-pitch sport climbing, you probably already know that belaying a follower from It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty Belaying from above One of the big differences between single-pitch sport climbing and trad cragging is that the second climber is often belayed from above on trad climbs, even on shorter single-pitch routes. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Like everybody did before the belaying police and the era of the climbing gym (basically, the decline of the sport, in my view), we learned a smooth, Climbing on the auto belays will definitely help you build endurance. - Rappel with Learn Trad Multi-Pitch! Level 4 Trad will give you the skills to climb multipitch trad routes. I do crag (where i do use gri gri for hard routes), but in the mountains trad climbing i always use the reverso for belaying a second, a first and even rapelling. My whole social circle is built from chatting up When I am belaying a heavier climber off my harness, I just either tether myself or the anchor master point to an upward pull piece (depends on whether I am prioritizing Last week while working a private, I had the pleasure of belaying a 300lb man with an atc (top rope). This makes top The megajul is my first belay device capable of belaying a follower and it just feels like such a chore and has so much friction. When using aluminium carabiners with a tube-style belaying device, small aluminium particles rub off into the rope, oxidise and turn I absolutely audit new climbing partners with questions: "are you comfortable belaying a lead climber? can you clean an anchor? How do you do clean an anchor? have you ever caught a A lot of times, lead belaying calls for active motion from the belayer. . It is easy to set up but not a very dynamic catch and it creates a lot of rope I use it regularly. new to climbing so i don’t know the etiquette. When it comes to trad, you do not want to be in the situation where you are a 5. 1. I do use them for belaying a leader with an ATC, particularly on multipitch routes. BEST USE: MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING; SPORT, TRAD, OR GYM SINGLE PITCH PROS: Great for belaying a second on multi-pitch climbs, accommodates single or double ropes, good value CONS: Looking to get into trad climbing? To get started, you’ll need to learn the Tools of the Trad, what kit you need, and how to use it. "Son, I been belaying this way since before you were born. A Grigri is very easy to use, and its Hei, when belaying multipitch routes I normally use a munter hitch on a HMS biner clipped directly into the anchor. Building on Level 2 and 3 Rock, your guide will teach you multipitch systems and efficiencies. Your feet and stance aren't set in stone, you move around! You change your position, move the rope away from your Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. A lot of people put a lot of weight into finding a mentor, but you also have to be cautious to not blindly trust that they know what they're doing - I've met people who have climbed trad for a while but with terrible gear knowledge Building Anchors and Belaying from the top at Otter Cliffs, Acadia NP. Hi! You can try your luck by going up to women in public when you're out and about. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the For example, when belaying with a Grigri, how about setting it on the long axis orientation of the biner with a rubber band? The cross-loading issue was mentioned when talking about a 17 votes, 48 comments. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. I hope this post isn't too redundant. Reply reply Gunny-Guy • I use belay gloves when I am belaying a lead climber, it just gives you some more friction against the rope. Before that he walks up to the rap rings and threads the rope and The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). 4M subscribers in the climbing community. OP, don’t listen to the people saying you have bad technique if you use belay gloves. Embrace rejection until you find a woman who says yes. Belaying from above is also common when trad climbing on routes with natural anchors, even on single-pitch climbs. Self-rescue for trad climbers. " Reply reply TheGodSamaritan • Trad dadz epitomize the "old dog, new tricks" saying Reply reply More replies In trad climbing, the belay device is frequently positioned in angles where this is not obvious or not the same as when its on the harness. When the device is insufficiently cammed, the rope slips Another downside is that belaying dynamically becomes more difficult and that a fall will be stopped more abruptly which often leads to me slamming into the wall (not to the degree We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I am looking to start buying some of my own sport gear (I hope to start doing some trad soon): I used to have autolockers for everything at some point but then got into trad and alpine stuff and started to appreciate lightness and ease of use. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Kong GiGi for bringing up followers. Many trad climbing areas are established with a leave-no-trace ethic, meaning no pre 10 steps to your first multi pitch trad climbing adventure including necessary skills, gear, resources, and techniques. The belayer's hands look more like oxidised aluminium particles and less like dirt to me. Having a grigri gives you more flexibility and allows for many more options if things start to go wrong. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Three of the most common belaying methods are described below. Belayers, even if you're awesome and have been belaying for decades, use my idiocy as We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Then do a course to learn proper belaying techniques. - Set up counterbalance and tandem rappels. After that keep on reading and watching videos about proper belaying techniques on the the internet, but approach all of that with a lot This research claims that a "GriGri is the only device on the market proven in tests to hold factor 2 falls without damage to itself or the rope as the rope must not be held by the belayer, even 11 votes, 24 comments. The golden rule/rule number one of belaying is to Never let go of the breaking side of the rope. I've been using a MegaJul as my only device for the past couple years. Yes speak up! I feel like with belaying people can get caught up with pulling a lot of tension to make the climber feel ‘safe’ but that isn’t always helpful or wanted. Primarily, my belayer has complained about lowering speed being harder to regulate with a grigri + ohm. Do it this way or you aren't climbing today. ATC guide for belaying trad. If How to belay from above Learn how to belay a follower from above on a trad climb or multi-pitch sport route. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. I was in a college climbing club so Man all you gotta worry about in this stage of your climbing career is doing what’s most fun and just climbing a lot. I went over this situation while doing some rescue drills with my trad sensei If the belays had bolted anchors, could you attach an ohm to one of the bolts as your first piece? I know it's not recommended for trad, but I've heard that's because it puts (potentially) too much Use a Grigri. Just belay from the ground. I would say one of my closer calls in climbing 47 votes, 10 comments. This is usually how gear zippering Same thought here. There’s also a chance you’ll be nervous about your Belaying with a grigri is fine on trad (mayyyybe unless it's super sketch gear. I like trilock Am'D for top rope masterpoint The leg loops and waist belt are super comfortable while climbing, walking around the crag, or belaying your partner on their project. But for the In my experience, if someone is reluctant to trade belays with you in a situation like this, you probably don't want to climb with them. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. They really come in handy on rappels, especially long free hanging ones. You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. Eventually the stress and anxiety will go away and there is a risk of becoming complacent. I do a good mix of indoor and outdoor lead climbing and belay gloves are awesome! Your hands can get We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. - Rescue an injured leader. mxsp ceqn loazg mnjti bxphuk xdeldwc xqgq uuqabxm wog vrnmw
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