Slab climbing injuries reddit. His got pretty progressed and he couldn't climb at all.
- Slab climbing injuries reddit. 158 votes, 128 comments. However recently, after several days of slab climbing & aggressive rockovers, I ended up having some troubles again. Fifteen years of climbing, more runout trad climbs than I can count, and my first serious injury was toproping in the gym. I've been slowly working back up to it and took a big fall (17 feet) today on a scary slab. If you feel any kind of weird aches or pains (esp in your fingers), then stop climbing. You are much more likely to get a lower leg injury from taking a weird fall when bouldering. With things like this I always think it is best to do what the dr. Make liberal use of pads, spotters, downclimbing, and learn how to fall properly. Climbing Injury in Peshastin Pinnacles I wanted to write a quick post here about an accident that recently happened near Leavenworth, WA, in the Peshastin Pinnacles State Park. Sure, we each have our favorite styles but generally climb within a grade on most styles. I love climbing, but if I were obese I absolutely wouldn't see the risk/reward being there. Climbing is rough on your back, particularly falls (whether they're on ropes or boulders). Not sure if speeding up your climbing will help your footwork. My girlfriend and I were climbing on Martian Slab on Sunday, Sept 18th. 1. After injuries I take time off and then come back slowly, but inevitably within a couple months the finger injuries are back to the dangerously nagging stage. Has anyone returned to climbing after an injury like this? I currently have screws in my forearm to hold the bones in place. Hard heel/toe hooks and rock overs can really mess you up if they are at your limit. I would climb about 2/3 days a week often times taking 2 days minimum between climbing days to be completely fresh to tackle my outdoor projects. started light climbing with wrist widget (v0-4), slowly Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger tendies. says and hope that in a year or so (depending on injury) things improve and you can consider working towards climbing more. It’s This past season I got my first v12 and really the major thing I did is rest more. For context I'm a 25y/o EMT. My biggest climbing injuries so far have been a ruptured ankle tendon and a tweaked LCL. Quick intro: I am 44 years old based, in Brazil, been climbing for more than half of my life. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock Bouldering gym owners: I'm collecting best practises for gyms to prevent injuries. Climbers who climb at higher grades, or who boulder and lead climb in preference to top Hangboarding and keeping climbing volume in check. Thoughts, experiences, tips etc greatly appreciated. I listened to the Esther Smith episode of the Training Beta podcast about finger injuries today and have been taking notes on that. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have Unlock the secrets to slab climbing with these tips from Rock Spot including keeping your heels down and edging with climbing shoes. I've always just climbed for fun. He saw a surgeon and was advised to have surgery but opted for P/T instead. My elbow hit the wall on the way down right on my nerve, and I experienced some of the most severe pain I've ever felt. Oh, hm. Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. This injury occurs when downward force is applied to an ankle in an inverted position, with the big toe side of the foot up, and the little toe side down. Wondering if I’m being a fool and would be better off getting on the slab and vert walls more or should I just not worry and climb what gets me excited? 33 year old guy, climbing for a year. I find that I'm climbing a couple grades lower on slab problems compared to overhanging ones. (Yes, I realize this sub is not a substitute for professional medical help. Early in my career I had a major muscular back injury which even after healing, left me with chronic pain and vulnerable to later "petty" back injuries (think severe pain and difficulty moving but for a short period of time). Commonly asked about topics I usually warm up on V3-4, flash a few 5s (slabby 5's can give me issues), V6 in my style (overhung) usually go in 2-4 attempts. The only time Haha, yeah, just trying to put my mind at ease until I see someone in PT / at the doctors office next week. He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). Also tendon glides and a good warm up routine are your friends. You have much higher injury risk. Let people enjoy or not enjoy whatever they want. Read this and be familiar with it before asking questions. I have cartoonishly long legs so it doesn’t help but not training my leg joints to be more stable is one of my greatest regrets climbing-wise. Slab for technique? Hi everyone, I’d like some of your opinions regarding a discussion I’ve been having with my climbing partner. Steeper climbs may be less painful than slab routes with delicate footwork and lots of sustained plantar flexion. V7 in my style take a couple of days to get. Currently battling a bad back injury and this has got me thinking about how to prevent all future injuries by strengthing and weight training. I’ve implemented a regular pre- and especially post-climb stretching routine and Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. 94 votes, 57 comments. I guess worst case scenario there’s always slab climbing hahaha Reply reply More repliesMore replies A little over six weeks ago I was climbing at my local gym and experienced an excruciatingly sharp pain fast forward to today and I am pretty sure it's an intercostal muscle strain or possibly a tear. The best way to prevent injury is not overdoing climbing volume and doing enough strength exercises in contrast to . With the right amount of cardio worked in to lose weight, falling from height would Reddit's rock climbing training community. I've been in physical therapy for the past 3 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. As long as your climbing days have a goal or purpose taking a few days between climbing should keep you fresh to improve. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. It's not a team sport, so you can enjoy Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. Thanks 2 years out from my tfcc tear, it sucks. In my mind, a couple days or even a week of no climbing beats taking months off in Toe strength isn’t just handy for slab climbing—we need it and calf strength for holding kneebars, molding to dishes, and more. I’ve also just started climbing (3 months) and sort of in the same boat. nl Open Broke my arm and had surgery. What kind of training can I do at home with limited equipment (pullup bar and dumbells)? I've been doing pullups and half crimp Reddit's rock climbing training community. This time I literally run to the doc, as I was scared that the ligament might have been damaged: the knee was swollen, and sort of blocked for several days after a bouldering session. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across. All while bouldering. I've been getting into climbing for a month or two now. I’m assuming Climb easier routes with foot holds outside the crack or work on your sport climbing game for a while. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. I shake it off and keep going no issues, nothing out of the ordinary. I’m feeling so discouraged because I know I’ll lose a lot of progress but I really want to give my ankle a lot of time to heal. So i guess my mind is comparing that type of soft tissue injury with this one. Reply reply bobombpom • Get off work early Saturday night and super psyched to have a chance to hit the gym before it closes. Reddit's rock climbing training community. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. it's also super easy to reinjure, so be careful when you start climbing again. The r/climbharder Master Sticky. I think it's cause on overhangs I'm usually falling straight down onto the mat, whereas in slab climbs I'm scared a foot will slip unexpectedly and I'll hit every hold and volume on the way down. The only exception being comp-style and especially running This "Injury Gospel" will help you prevent pesky injuries and heal them faster. In my 20+ years of climbing, I have never smashed my face against the wall. Fully dedicated to the most injury intensive discipline (bouldering) for the past 13 years. I (27f) have osteoporosis in my back and hips so I’m similarly concerned about building strength while minimising risk. In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. I stick to developing my slab technique outside. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Looking for some tips on how to feel safer when climbing on slab. Climbing has literally never been painfree for me. worst injury ever. My problem was that I never thought to strengthen I fell about 50 feet down slab the other day while I was leading. After a few minutes it subsided and I had the usual "funny bone" symptoms: numbness, tingling and muscle weakness in my ring/pinky Ankle sprains are the most common injury in the lower leg. The home of Climbing on reddit. Pros training every day have a LOT of training behind them just to And consider taking up rope climbing if your injury averse. We offer our advice on the top 7 most common climbing injuries, how to spot problems occuring and how to avoid them in the first place. What is this muscle that seems to be so overdeveloped in pro climbers? Is it the teres major? I’m curious because I’ve developed a pretty muscular back from climbing and training, but this muscle isn’t particularly prominent. The only injuries I sustained (we won't mention the phone replacement, but that certainly injured my wallet) were a few scrapes So you hear about climbing injuries all the time since they're fairly common, but as somebody who is a newer climber, I'm curious to know what you did to cause your own injuries? Being afraid of getting hurt isn't irrational, it's safe, and a big part of climbing is risk management. e. I just had my first climbing injury- sprained my ankle. ) drjuliansaunders Related Topics Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment 13 votes, 23 comments. I've done three V8's. Another reason why climbers hate slab climbing is related to the fact that slab climbing is completely different to overhang climbing. Rope climbing especially top rope is probably the safest form of climbing seeing as your not hitting the ground, there is still a chance of injury, but if you have a good partner the risks are exceptionally low. You’re engaging different muscles and using different techniques which ultimately can put off a climber As you progress through your ankle program, be sure to incorporate climbing throughout as an evaluation of your ankle status. I avoid the slab wall. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. Already had climbed a few time occasionally, but now I bought my first pair of shoes and plan on going more regularly. See a physio with experience with climbing injuries if you can, they'll be able to direct you best for rehab and climbing specific exercises. They lasted me 3 1K votes, 59 comments. One of those 'hit your funny bone' awkward pain/numbness injuries which quickly subsides. His got pretty progressed and he couldn't climb at all. I have been doing some one handed slab climbing but am refraining from using the wrist to climb. My right arm was fully extended to a small pinch, and my right foot was balancing on a micro jib. Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment JCMoxie •• Edited Rest a full 48 hours in between climbing sessions; you should not be going everyday. Also should mention that I hurt the wrist initially in late September. I'm wondering how some of you guys went about getting a proper diagnosis, assessing bad climbing habits that may have caused it, and rehablitaing the injury. I also stick with mainly top rope/lead/auto belay and only boulder occasionally due to fear of injury by falls. Should you wait for the In rock climbing we know slab and ledgy falls are way more likely to result in you getting flipped and/or catching your ankles, well unless you're a real hotshot most ice is undervertical and ledgy PLUS you have crampons to snag on the ice and axes waving around. Inflammation was crazy intense for like a month. I’ve typically going with neutral shoes (although I did have a pair of Evolv Kronos. Climb your antistyle where you feel like your technical weaknesses really hit (like maybe technical slabs you cant cheat with strength in your case). you'll probably never be 100%, but you might get close with a lot of rehab and strength training. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. Parsons broke nearly every major bone in her body, including her spine and pelvis. If your body is tired (i. On the right side (my first injury), there was also a distinct feeling of instability & vulnerability in my shoulder with my arm raised above my head. You will need a really well balanced cycle to keep your body working, something that allows you to recover sufficiently and even more importantly for progress, keep your training high quality. Yes there are ways to prevent injury bouldering, and top roping is not risk-free, but I can’t wait to get back to climbing, and will likely not be My brother suffered the same injury from excess slab climbing. Injury free. Agreed. Unfortunately my gym doesn't have a whole lot of slabs set up, so I'd be doing the same 2 or 3 routes every time I went Reply reply More replies Carliios • Discover expert tips and techniques to master slab climbing, one of the most challenging yet rewarding styles in the climbing gym. 337 votes, 50 comments. Finger injuries are one of the most common climbing injuries and finger strength (in relationship to your body weight) is one of the most important indicators of climbing performance in advanced climbers. The well known company that provided the walls have asured me that nothing else can be done but to advise all climbers of the possible dangers resulting to slab climbing. trueI'm surprised by the lack of people suggesting rope climbing first. As someone who's got a small pot belly and on the higher end of fat% among climbers, I find it way better to train on low bouldering walls and high wall auto belay first for both technique and cardio. And yes we are scared of falling. (I think I got it doing a gaston move on a slab wall). It's not very representative of the type of slab climbing around me and the injury potential is real. (Great resource for climbing specific injury advice. I'm fairly certain I strained my pulleys. A few I saw this article where their take home message is: "Many climbers sustain overuse injuries, particularly to their fingers, while climbing indoors. The 2,000-foot Snake Dike is a well-known but extremely run-out moderate slab route, and pitches often feature 40 to 50 feet of climbing between bolts, with scant placements for pro. Did yours hurt pretty bad, say a week later or did pain mostly only Because your adaptation is for your upper body, you will eventually (probably) gravitate towards slab climbing which is almost always a more foot-centric type of moves than powerful upper body overhangs. My biggest concern is to avoid overuse injury, as my forearms muscles/tendons are currently sore for a good 4 days after a session. I did 8 weeks wrist brace, 8 weeks wrist widget full time, then 8 weeks normal with no climbing. I haven't seen a lot of injuries at my gym but over half have been on the slab wall including my own mildly sprained knee. If possible go and climb with people which excel at your weaknesses Reply reply Anthropocentrism • I prescribe slab climbing Reply reply professional-loser69 • I have a few innervated muscles in my shoulder (supraspinatus, infraspinatus) due to a brachial plexus injury long ago, and as of a few weeks ago that same shoulder has been grinding and clicking and popping, and only seems to be getting worse. Just started going to a bouldering gym. I was never diagnosed with a specific injury but my doctor suggested it was either bursitis or tendonitis from repetitive use. I was wondering how many times per week to target. I think with how things get set and intersect, I hate the feeling of possibly hitting something on the way down. This is why I'm not always the biggest fan of slabs (especially bouldering slabs). I've been in physical therapy for the past 3 I think climbing will develop strong back and biceps/forearms on its own, so it might be efficient to focus on "push" muscles like pushups, bench, and shoulder presses to both balance physique (prevent hunched climbers back and build chest that climbing doesn't) and build accessory strength that pairs well with climbing / prevents injury. I've banged and bumped all of those up, but never my face. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam. Wake up in the wee hours of the morning and my I love slab. Not all injuries are the same but I hope you’re back to climbing soon! Injuries suck! Edit: I would like to add that my Airrosti provider encouraged me to keep climbing (very mildly) after a certain amount of treatment to gauge how I was Slabs for technique sounds like a really good idea, actually. The most primary long term cause of gains in climbing, as with many sports, will depend on you keeping injuries at bay. It´s common for me to climb/train 6 times per week. However, what I am lacking is a regimented training schedule. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Halfway through the session I bop my knee on a hold on the slab wall. Currently rehabbing two minor pulley injuries and fully cleared by physio to keep climbing so long as they are taped for support and no full crimping. I usually only have enough time to go about 1 day a week. Depends a lot on the nature and degree of the injury. You probably don't want to risk it being a serious injury, and the fact that it didn't just resolve itself after a few days makes it sound to me like you should get it checked out. you didn't get a good night's rest), or you haven't stayed properly hydrated, then you should skip a session. I have avoided slab for a long time since spraining my ankle on it last January. Certain styles of climbing, namely slab, are a great way to improve stability, as these climbs often I have been climbing for 5 years but only two years consistently I can climb at a v6 level on slab but only around a v4 on any other discipline. Techy/slabby V6's can take a session to get, my slab climbing needs work. Slab walls are generally more dangerous as you're not necessarily falling onto mats straight down - so be prepared to push yourself away from the wall when you fall. I experienced a really bad ankle tear a few years ago slab climbing in the South Platte. Very diligent about warming up, strength training and antagonistic work. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. If you're doing climbing for fitness, climbing is extremely taxing on small muscles that don't burn very many calories, and relatively easy on large muscle groups compared to other activities. He has made a full recovery and has no lack of A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. There is no 'exercises to prevent injuries' as a specific magic bullet. I thought I was warm enough and it was slab so I’m mostly balancing anyhow, and I start the problem. I guess I just looking for some advice from people who have been through this. Basically if you really dont wanna do one of those boulders, that is a special reason to try it until you succeed. And people say slab is fun 🥲 Indoor Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A roguebaconstrip • Generally nagging injuries that get worse, I can't remember a time I've climbed where I didn't have at least some slight pain. Reply reply More replies perpetualwordmachine • Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. Thanks all. Well both were acute injuries (L side: slab climbing fall, R side: bicycle crash) so my very first sx were like numbness/tingling down my arm, and pain with flexion/abduction. I was thinking, wondering, do people usually have a big skill disparity between slab and overhang or not? Me and the people I climb with make a point to vary our climbing during our sessions, so we hit a bit of everything every time. The damage to her left foot was irreparable, and she opted to have it amputated shortly after Look into the climbing doctor - a book on common climbing injuries and exercises to prevent them. One gym had a 50% reduction in injuries by using these methods, but more tips are very welcome! valcursus. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. I’m honestly worried about it effecting my mental health because exercise is so important to stabilize myself. My mane goal of the training would be to increase strength and power and finger strength. I’ve been climbing for about a year. ) Downclimbing yesterday I fell and slid down a slab. I really don't trust my feet. I tore my ACL and MCL bouldering in November - an injury that unequivocally would not have happened if I had been top roping. Hey everyone. What grip positions are safer for lumbricals while I do some very light slab/technique style climbing, and what aren't? Any recommendations on how to not strain it during climbing and what should I do in the future to keep it more injury free? Quick background info: i was climbing for maybe 30-45 minutes minimal stretching but tried to work my way through problems before trying hard got on a problem that was slab with good feet and some weird mono pocket start. Knuckles, elbows, shins, knees, sure. Knee’s hyperextended. I'm curious if you or anyone you know has used climbing specifically to strengthen back muscles and reduce back pain. jdvluy crev wgor bsop cal iic tdcep fugpn bpbm grpfp