Hangboarding for hypertrophy reddit. It's not hard at all to add hangboarding to a regular gym session. Finger strength is, perhaps, the only aspect of climbing fitness better trained off Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too Hypertrophy, the golden goose. Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. Chalk while hangboarding? Is there any benefit to chalking up while hangboarding if I'm just trying to build finger strength? I compete in ninja warrior and some competitions don't allow chalk so I'm considering cutting it out of hangboarding sessions to mimic competition settings. I find that despite my interest in training a wide variety of athletic qualities, hypertrophy training is always something I circle back to with enthusiasm. My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. Where do you all place hangboarding in your routine? Is it better to place it on the same day as hard bouldering session or do it on a rest day (which is most likely sandwiched between two days of climbing)? Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. I know hangboarding is basically that: An isolated exercise for your forearms and fingers, but maybe we should all be working on low-rep high-intensity workouts similar to that of max hangs, but with weights. I noticed that the Anderson brothers recommend hangboarding for rehab but seem to be very light on how to actual do this Does anyone have any experience doing this and a recommended protocol? I assume start stupid light with like most of your body weight removed with a pulley system and do repeaters? This wiki aims to answer just about any question you may have about hypertrophy training. I wouldn't rely solely on one movement for a muscle group if maximizing hypertrophy is the goal though. The authors I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. To make story short, I'm not progressing. Just pull hard on edges and gain some strength and comfort before tackling a more demanding program. Hey guys looking for a solid 5 day pre made hypertrophy program on an app that I can download on my phone. Hi all, I'm looking for advice on how to start hangboarding and when to fit it into my climbing routine. Ever since c4hp and Emil and others have talked about density hangs, I've been seeing a ton of people recommending them for injury prevention when they don't understand what they do over the past few months. On a day you're very tired, and weaker from a training session the previous day, that's unlikely to happen. Isometrics aren't the greatest for hypertrophy anyway (?), but if you throw out that climbing specificity and try for size, the programs here for instance give you some interesting hang times. I'm 6'3 183, have pretty low body fat and want to put on muscle since I have room to bulk. Details may vary depending on training age. Because climbing is a skill sport versus a strength sport, many people can achieve high levels (5. I think that finger strength is definitely a limiting factor in my climbing, particularly max finger strength. Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. Been climbing for about 5 years, and started hangboarding 5-6 months ago due to the usual advice that it'll injure you if you Week 2: Start hangboarding at a really light weight. 5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and Research studies have documented what thousands of recreational and pro climbers have discovered at home—hangboard training works! Three brief training sessions per week, for four weeks, will yield a noticeable increase I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. I don't think thoughtful, well-read people are arguing that hangboarding is inherently injurious to new climbers. It appears my half crimp is significantly weaker (-7kg) than my open hand on the 14mm edge. 5 year self assessment of climbing, First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. Reading through Beastmaking I noticed that Ned makes a distinction between max hangs and long max hangs. According to the book, 5-15s max hangs are great for neuromuscular recruitment but don't provide as much stimulus to strength as 20s "long" max hangs. If you have a severe muscular deficit anywhere though, hypertrophy training may still be a good idea. Just pull hard on edges So as you can see, I didn't really feel like I was at that stage where hangboarding was going to be a regular part of my training, but now it looks like the best alternative thus far if gyms close down again or I think its too Thoughts on my upper day for hypertrophy? submitted 1 hour ago by anihalatologist. Even for hypertrophy based programs, there are significantly less exercises for a 3-4 day program. It might make sense to include some heavy finger rolls (which you can do with dumbbells if you have heavy enough weight) to induce hypertrophy in these muscles. 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would I've always wondered about long term improvement with primarily using max hangs for training finger strength. I agree with Steve Maisch that max hangs seem to be better for strength recruitment (neurological adaptations) but not hypertrophy and not necessarily overall strength. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. Is this true for you? Thanks in . I'm a 17y/o girl on a comp team, I've been climbing for five years, low-end 5. Repeaters seem to be superior to max hangs for overall strength and hypertrophy when comparing those protocols in isolation. So for about 3 months I've hanged twice a week, one repeaters session and one max hangs. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. How is BBB for muscle growth in Training full body daily vs 3x per week, which gives better results in the long term *FOR YOU*? Hangboarding for extremely weak fingers - large edge, pulley system or no-hangs? I'm a 30-something year old man. Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. I should start by saying I'm not terribly worried about getting specific numbers, after all this is just hangboarding but it does raise some questions on training as a whole and other than that not seeing any progress is quite discouraging. I'll be taking care of my back and shoulders with body-weight work, but I was wondering about the hypertrophy effects of dead hangs for my forearms. If you do pure strength work (reps of 1-3 usually) then you will get better at doing heavy weight and low reps. Twice a week, for 5 weeks I did max hangs on 19mm half crimp I’d hang at around 150% BW for ten seconds with 4 minutes rest in between. Grips to promote hypertrophy will not do that, nor will they help with power, or power endurance. Lots of pulling movements are required in climbing, but especially at a beginner level all that movement is going to be higher volume and lower intensity than doing pullups or other traditional pulling exercises, which is worse for building muscle mass. I tested my max Hypertrophy training typically involves higher rep ranges, around 8-12 reps per set, and focuses on a variety of exercises that target specific muscle groups. Very curious how they correlate. Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. So read through and learn what the best evidence-based coaches and researchers recommend for hypertrophy. I'm a bot, bleep, bloop. At some point, hangboarding becomes useful for isolating finger strength. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. If you're interested in the physiological mechanisms of strength and hypertrophy, I cover them in depth in Part 2 of the OGO series. Keep in mind that hangboarding is not the definitive and ultimate way to push up your grade because every hangboard routine is always repetitive and lacks technical and problem solving aspects that are very important for climbing performance. Hypertrophy training of the muscles during the offseason seems to me like the better mechanic for long term improvement. This program focuses mostly on ligaments and tendons but there are likely other downstream effects. Week 13-forever, climb normal, using 3 finger drag when applicable. Climbing can certainly help you build The “hypertrophy range” of roughly 6-15 reps per set may produce slightly better results per unit of time invested than low rep and high rep work. First week I evaluated my max, then I did 4 sets next week. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral Most people will suggest either running a hypertrophy phase and then a strength phase (and then a power phase), but for just starting to lift, whatever you do will be effective in most areas. It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. Nay. 5hrs each. The last paragraph was very interesting. Started adding in some minimal hang boarding, Any suggestions on good upper lower program to follow that focuses on hypertrophy? Thanks! Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Add a Comment ah-nuld •• Edited If you want maximal Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. Would I campus and hangboard to warmup or after everything? Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment the_birds_and_bees • How do I plan my Max Hangs? I’ve recently been doing a lot of max weight hangboarding. But I don't know, maybe it's a bad idea since most hypertrophy focused programs mix high and low volume days? I looked at German volume training, but found some sources claiming that people with lower volume had the Hey ya'll, I've decided to start a hypertrophy block in my training program because compared to my legs and core, my back and forearms are significantly underpowered. Otherwise, just run a strength phase - compound lifts and lower reps (<8). I'd recommend taking it serious at first then gradually moving into power/campus work but continuing to climb intermittently. It's safer to hangboard with the full crimp than to habitually climb with it, simply because hangboarding is much more controlled. Thoughts on my upper day for hypertrophy? submitted 1 hour ago by anihalatologist Running a 4 day upper/lower, bodyweight for compounds and weights for isolation. The short answer (according to Dave Macleod) is no. , like bouldering (if you're a route climber), like many other tools, rather than squeezing a grip. Since all his metrics were max strength it would My point is that if you are just doing max hangs for recruitment, then moving on to campusing after, it may be that you are having 2 phases of recruitment then (hangboarding and campusing) which would be less effective then hypertrophy then recruitment (repeaters then campusing). The argument is more "hangboarding is unnecessary (and occasionally detrimental) to new climbers because all the positive adaptations of hangboarding can be induced by thoughtfully organizing a climbing routine on the wall". Or, is there research I've missed regarding this topic? Hypertrophy before a certain age occurs due to muscle fiber differentiation (aka muscle growth) due to exercise + the other inputs to growth (nutrition, hormones real & synthetic, sleep, hydration, stress management, etc). ). Created by u/The_Rick_Sanchez & u/Bottingbuilder. I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. The goal of hypertrophy training is to increase muscle size and But then again, you can never be too strong. Warm-up, don't fuck up Week 9-12 Start adding climbing back in, only using 3 finger drag to start. It's not stupid to start the process sooner than later, if you know what you're doing. Sarcoplasmic hypertrophy which refers to an increase in muscle size without an increase in contractile components Myofibrillar hypertrophy, referring to an increase in muscle size by an increase in contractile components. Make sure to warm-up Week 3-8: Progressively load your grips, don't push your max. Let's say you start with something like 3 sets of 10s hangs with 3 minute Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home. Not implying my program is better in any way, I'm just curious why that's the case. Hangboard hypertrophy is mostly limited to repeaters (?) but 7/3 and 5/5 were both chosen because they mimic climbing durations (?). forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. You will learn how to build an amazing program for yourself and dispel a lot of bad training and nutrition information. I actually think hangboarding is safer than just climbing even for new climbers because the loads are very controlled unlike real climbing. I was able to improve my average 7-second hang strength by 11% It's a great way to start hangboarding for a beginner - no pulleys, weights, or super complicated schemes. Beginners ususally experience rapid improvement just by climbing. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. outsideonline. However, on the whole, the advantage you get from working in the hypertrophy range isn’t nearly as big as people seem to think; maybe a ~10-15% advantage per unit of effort invested at most. I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. r/naturalbodybuilding Current search is within r/naturalbodybuilding Remove r/naturalbodybuilding filter and expand search to all of Reddit I’ve been training for purely hypertrophy (never below 5 reps, plenty of exercises over the years) for years but noticed a few of the natural bodybuilders on YT like Alex Leonidas train more in a powerbuilder style with max effort singles, etc. Are the rest times much longer? Does that I started bouldering, indoor only, in January and have been hooked ever since - averaging 3 sessions a week 2. 2020. 13 outdoors and v8-9 max indoors. No real risk of injury because your feet are always planted. Hypertrophy training is rarely specifically targeted in large muscle groups, because, in your legs, for instance, the extra muscle is rarely necessary. Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. Based on some quick youtube research (emil abrahamsson, stefano ghisolfi), it seems that no hang numbers tend to be higher than hangboard numbers. I have an embarrassingly weak upper body (working on it!), Hangboarding: Recruitment and hypertrophy, most controlled loading Campusing: Recruitment, contact strength, pulling power of the arms, extreme loading, Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. What are the advantages and disadvantages of max hangs vs longer hangs (40 seconds) vs longer workouts with less rest in between (7 second on 3 seconds off) for finger strength? So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. I tried to find some more information on the topic, but it seems like most protocols recommend 5-10s hangs and longer To round things back out with the PCP and Steve Masich. Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to Read our No-Hang routine review. From a hypertrophic perspective, adding 300 pounds to your deadlift will do more for your back than most other exercises. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is When the gyms where closed, I started Hangboarding. What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. hangboarding weights - what are your weighted numbers? Do they correlate with each other? Please also include climbing level and bodyweight. Let me know what you think about max weighted no-hang repeaters! Tl;Dr to progress FAST do max weighted no-hang repeaters. Looking at Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. Something I can easily log each set/reps and preferably something that auto regulates when to + the weight based on what I log. Running a 4 day upper/lower, bodyweight for compounds and weights for isolation. Perhaps a lower volume, moderate density style repeater everyday could be effective (say 3 sets everyday rather than 6 sets every other day). But generally speaking, yes, the full crimp is really bad for you if you aren't conditioned for it. Hangboarding is a strength exercise, meaning you should be doing shorter hangs (7-10s) at maximal effort. Probably ok for traps/forearm hypertrophy. I’m taller and a bit heavier than most climbers at 6’4” and 195lbs, so have identified finger strength to weight as a weakness (one of many to work on). Do open hand and half crimp. (Info / ^ Contact) You are able to get more quality work and do more volume, volume is the main driver of Hypertrophy. No hang vs. What is your opinion on this? Hello reddit! Im almost done with madcow 5x5, and so im looking to mix things up with a pure high volume hypertrophy program for the next 2-3 months. 2019 and Feb. You're much better doing other supplemental work, like hangboarding, like campus boarding, like various core exercises, like ring work, like H. When would I incorporate campus and hangboarding into my routine. For the past couple of months I've resumed hangboarding (following a variation of Bechtel's 3-6-9 protocol). Ok, first things first: any climber who wants to climb as hard as their genetic potential will allow needs to hangboard at some point. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. Someone has linked to this thread from another place on reddit: [r/u_major_pain12] Best hangboarding routine for newbie gains If you follow any of the above links, please respect the rules of reddit and don't vote in the other threads. Then 5 then 6 the reevaluated the last week. 18 votes, 83 comments. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as Which do the science minded of this community prefer for cutting? A strength focused or hypertrophy focused program to maintain muscle and strength? For reference, this would be with goals of strength and body composition equally as important. " Medical professionals use "Myofibrillar, muscle, hypertrophy" for the results of following a "Training for strength" routine. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. After doing finger curls with my forearm vertical for a while, I recently did a cycle of horizontal finger curl and felt like this improved my sloper and pinching strength a lot so I figured this could be interesting or useful to Recently I’ve noticed in my climbing that I tend to struggle with tiny holds, which is probably because I usually hangboard 20 mm edges with added weight with a few different grips. Why do I recommend this? It's a great way to start hangboarding for a beginner - no pulleys, weights, or super complicated schemes. If you had to narrow on two supplemental excercises to create gains in the forearms what would they be. Background: I've been climbing twice a week since 2019 - now around v4-v6 (overhang v slab) indoors. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best calnick0 • Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. Tried to design it I’ve started going back over some old posts on reddit and re-analyzing them from a stronger climbing perspective including the recently updated 7. I. 1 you increase your recruitment by pulling at your max 2 you work on your forearm hypertrophy with repeated stimulus 3 you minimize the risk of injury by constantly keeping your feet on the ground. If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. Strength with minimal hypertrophy: a case for weight training? I love strength training, which for me has always been bodyweight training until now: I now have access to a barbell and a squat rack at my place and I started doing (and loving) deadlifts en barbell squats. Most studies have volume equated but in the real world doing more frequency allows you to do more volume. My question is if it is best to Hangboard on non-climbing days or before/after climbing. To medical professionals the results of following a "Training for hypertrophy" routine is called "Sarcoplasmic, muscle, hypertrophy. To build endurance you can use a real wall. I’ve found that I can hang on 10 mm 16 votes, 78 comments. I'm 6'0" and weigh 190 pounds in case it matters. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. I've been bouldering ~3 times per week for ~2 years and I cannot hang 20mm bodyweight in half-crimp (or barely hang it for like 2 seconds on a good day). This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. e. I climb in a variety of styles + project a lot at my physical limit. Goldilocks problem). This develops fitness while developing climbing skills, and most people find it more fun than hangboarding (aka the purpose of climbing). I'm leaning toward plate pinches and heavy finger rolls but am open to other ideas and happy to buy any small This is in contrast to bodybuilders who don't care as much about moving heavy weights but mainly on hypertrophy -- anything in the about 5-30 rep range is good for hypertrophy. I'd guess most intermediate climbers should completely avoid it, including while climbing. Tried to design it around the concept of antagonistic muscle pairs, or atleast close to it. T. Now that I can go bouldering again I want to climb at least three times per week but also want to do max hangs once or twice per week. Adding this routine on top of your existing climbing is a reasonable Hypertrophy occurs when strength neurological adaptations stop. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. I usually climb for a few hours then do a bodyweight workout with rings. Hangboarding over the past 2 months has definitely improved my finger strength though. If your goal is strictly to build muscle mass, no, rock climbing is not a good compliment. That being said, I’d you don’t enjoy deadlifting - simply don’t deadlift. To see gains from hangboarding, you have to push yourself past your limit. Train non-climbing muscles on a separate day or after climbing. One, Two, Three. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. While they area great for developing maximum finger strength, I'm not sure Traditional bodybuilding work will continue to take up most of my foreamwork, but maybe ill experiment with some hangboard work, and if I respond well to it I can see myself using more Since many of us are here trapped at our homes, without access to a climbing gym or our crags, I'm sharing with you some routines that can be done on hangboards that will make you suffer, My goal was to see how much I could progress with strength training before I'd reach a plateau. I imagine it is because hypertrophy work Cover image source I’ve started going back over some old posts on reddit and re-analyzing them from a stronger climbing perspective including the recently updated 7. It all took me eight months between Jul. 12<) without hangboarding. Ideally Hi all. oxfln ban zgz mtjem xqmahxg ynb mxcapv zqpau rho zjury